Archive for the ‘February 2008’ Category

~ Day 110: Tuesday, February 26 ~

Wednesday, March 26th, 2008

I’ve been reading a fair amount of books during my days here in Paris.  I hypothesize that the increased number of train rides are responsible, plus I don’t have a TV that will speak to me in English.  At the risk of sounding pompous, there are a couple quotes from a recently read literary gem that truly deserve their time in the spotlight.

 ”I say, beware of all enterprises that require new clothes, and not rather a new wearer of clothes.  If there is not a new man, how can the new clothes be made to fit?  If you have any new enterprise before you, try it in your old clothes…perhaps we should never procure a new suit, however ragged or dirty the old, until we have so conductd, so enterprised, or sailed away in some way, that we feel like new men in the old, and that to retain it would be like keeping new wine in old bottles.”

“Those things for which the most money is demanded are never the things which the student most wants.  Tuition, for example, is an important item in the term bill, while for the far more valuable education which he gets by associating with the most cultivated of his contemporaries no charge is made.”

“I rejoice that there are owls.  Let them do the idiotic and maniacal hooting for men…they represent the stark twilight and unsatisfied thoughts that all have.”

~ Day 108: Sunday, February 24 ~

Wednesday, March 26th, 2008

After having marched up down and around staircases for a significant portion of the previous day it was nice to sit on a large rock for a relaxing hour on this particular morning.  And if that rock can be located down a path to where it looks like a stone dock of Mont Saint-Michel used to be, even better.  And, if you can eat a package of delicious touristy apple cookies…well, then that’s simply splendid.  The only thing I may trade from that little scenario is the rock for a couch.  Perhaps the apple cookie for a Sausage Egg McMuffin or Hot Cakes combo as well.  So, I suppose the morning could have been better if I was sitting on a nice couch placed upon the rocks of the Mont while dominating one of McDonald’s breakfast offerings.  Now that is called embracing the French culture.

There were high hopes for the day (bad pun definitely intended), as we were going to wander the massive monestary complex perched on the top of the island.  The place is old, huge, full of intriguing history and myth…what more could one want on a Sunday morning (ESPN, maybe)?

The touring of the monestary involved one of my few exeriences with audio guides.  I typically scoff at such devices, boasting to myself that I know enough history about the place or thing I’m about to see, or I just end up creating an enjoyable (yet historically inaccurate) reality.  But I’ve always felt that I’m somehow cheating myself.  After all, if I don’t know the subleties – that LOCATION A was once a prison for unruly fishermen in the 1600’s, or if LOCATION B was the very palace where a king, two portly peasant women, a court jester, and an amorous squirrel spent one unforgettable night, or if LOCATION C was where the first rock was thrown at a short person - have I enjoyed the experience as much as I should – or could – have?  Regardless, when you consider the extremes – one involving me staring blankly at a candleholder for twenty minutes, struggling to understand its significance, the other being me subjected to a tour guide hell-bent on making me hate the very place I came to visit - the audio guide isn’t such a bad deal. 

A squirrel with a secret?

Needless to say the whole monestary was massively impressive.  It consists of level after level being built on top of one another, with the church at the very top.  I got to see a guy ring the churchbells while sitting around up there, which I’m going to chalk up to one of life’s little accomplishments.  I’m not sure why.  The cloisters were absolutely amazing, with a beautiful view to the west.  That had to be the coolest part of the church, and I would have loved to spend a good hour or so with that view.  As you descend into the complex you notice all the huge pillars, desperately supporting the weight of the buildings above.  The audio guide helpfully documented all the times when a wall had collapsed, a comforting thought when four floors down in the dark.

My prevalent thought during my time was: with all the advances made in the past one hundred years, has mankind created anything that is this spectacular?  Sure, we have constructed huge steel towers capable of withstanding earthquakes – no easy feat – but Saint-Michel is built of brick and rock, literally hewn from the stone that surrounds it (and it has withstood numerous invasion attempts…and maybe an earthquake, who knows).  Nothing was diagrammed on a computer, no one had a sweet Texas Instruments calculator, and yet…this incredible structure is still here today.  Often I wonder what one of these early masons would say, if spirited to the present day.  I’m imagining him standing at the base of something like the Sears Tower, knowing that we have computer simulations and massive machinery, and saying something like “That’s it?”  Seriously, my bet is he would be more impressed with the advancements made in the world of sandwiches.  I can imagine it now – “No way, I can put this newfangled ranch dressing and jalapenos on my pepperjack club trio with bacon sandwich?  Fuck the Petronas Twin Towers, we’re staying here!”

Fighting it out for supremacy.

~ Day 107: Saturday, February 23 ~

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Nothing makes you feel more like a man than not being able to rent a car because you don’t know how to drive a manual transmission.  Oh sure, you could wrestle a polar bear, or get into a knife fight with a Russian.  But truly, if you want to feel at the peak of your masculinity, tell the good representatives at Avis, Hertz, and EuropCar that you are incapable of operating a stickshift.

But are you man enough to take on a knife-wielding infant polar bear?

I mentioned a while back that often times one wakes up over here and says, “Ok, what kind of loop am I going to be thrown for today.”  Three car rental places, not one of them having an automatic, is one of those loops.  Quite quickly the original plan – driving the Normandy coast and parking at Mont Saint-Michel – instead became a whilwind of train schedules and taxi rides.  Nevertheless, I was in Caen and there was a castle and a cathedral to see.  And a tram to illegally board.

 

Mysteriously, the apartments across the street from Caen castle are uninhabited.  Perhaps it has to do with the cannons.

Whenever I arrive at a magnificent old place like Mont Saint-Michel I find myself pondering two things.  The first concerns the ridiculous amount of garbage that souvenir shops are selling.  Shit like tall puffy hats, creepy little figurines, plastic weapons, 12 page history books about the place probably written by high school students, and so on.  Even more remarkable is that every shop has these things, which means people are out there buying this stuff.  Please, I implore you – if you are one of these people, cease.  And desist, if possible.  The second thing that always comes to mind is what it must have been like back in the day, whenever that day may have been.  Mont Saint-Michel must have been quite a scene.  It’s part stronghold, part monestary – a town with impressive walls and towers, all spiraling to the top of the island where the church buildings are ingeniously constructed – courtesy of the demands that the archangel Michel placed upon a bishop back in the the eighth century. 

 

The town of Mont Saint-Michel is situated on a small island that rises up from the gray clay of the Normandy coast.  Crowning the island is the church of Saint-Michel, and below it, spread along a single winding pedestrian street, are the hotels, restaurants, and shops of the town.  Scattered throughout the island are stone staircases, passageways, little open spaces…it really is quite beautiful.  As nice as it is during the day it is far superior at night.  The majority of the tourists leave, including noisy children and miniscule dogs, and it becomes very quiet. One can imagine torches flickering in the night as you walk along the ramparts, and there is one incredible phenomenon that puts Mont Saint-Michel near the top of my list.

The rock that is Mont Saint-Michel sits in a tidal plain, meaning that it floods.  During dinner, Missy and I heard an announcer say, “Please move your cars.  The water is rising.” Riiiiiiight.  Just 30 minutes ago we were surrounded by gray mud, with several puddles in the distance the only water in sight.  However…after walking to the walls of the town that evening one could see the Mont was now truly an island.  It’s amazing, and there is no better place to drink a bottle of wine than at the entrance of a medieval island town*, watching tidal waters recede as silently as they had come.

Moonlight over the Mont

*Because everything must always be “improved” there is now an un-floodable land bridge that was built in the 1960s or 1970s. So I suppose I’m technically lying by calling it an island.

~ Day 106: Friday, February 22 ~

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

When one’s day begins at 630 AM following a raucaus night of whiskey induced mayhem, it’s typically a day best greeted with a bottle of Excedrin and a jug of overly expensive water.  If both the pain medication and means of hydration are not available, I suppose a phonecall informing you that your taxi is waiting outside for your early flight home will do just as well.  May I please point out that anyone wishing to engage in Valencian antics had best bring a Spanish person along in his or her entourage.  Not only do they A) fluently speak the local language (useful when haggling over the price of a bottle of Glenfiddich), they also B) are used to consistently staying out until 6 AM in the morning.  This helpful characteristic means they don’t need to sleep, and thus are not prone to somehow missing the alarm on their cell phones.

Friday would have been an excellent day to crash into a bed of blankets and not emerge until late evening, possibly to purchase an Orangina or maybe even to venture off for some fresh air.  Thankfully such foolish thoughts were hurled aside, and planning immediately commenced to fly to Pisa, Italy or take a train up to Mont St-Michel.  After a breakfast at the American Diner, several episodes of Arrested Development, and moaning about a headache, Mont St-Michel was chosen as the lucky winner.

I had first discovered Mont St-Michel in the pages of The Economist, in an advertisement for a Land Rover.  That’s actually where I discover all my weekend vacation spots.  Don’t let The Economist fool you – it may host many articles regarding global warming, political upheaval, falling currencies, genocide, and corruption within its pages, but every now and then an advertisement for an SUV will inspire a dedicated reader.

Prior to any gawking at the truly impressive Mont, there was Caen.  Yes, Caen! Who hasn’t heard of Caen?!  It actually does have an impressive history, being in northern France.  This means Normandy, which means the D-Day invasion of 1944, which means that 75% of the city (approximately 10,000 buildings) was destroyed during WWII.  In contrast to those chaotic times, Caen was actually the preferred home of William the Conqueror in the 11th century – although, quite probably this made the scene much more interesting, given that he invaded England and frequently besieged his French neighbors.  Quite interesting, but it seems that most of these little towns that I end up in, either for work or something more interesting, have a bit of history.  Or at least a castle.  Unfortunately, with the late train arrival the most inspiring items that Caen offered were the garrish sign for our hotel and a perplexing shopkeeper, who sold me some type of gyro after several minutes of awkwardly attempted Frenglish.

 

~ Day 105: Thursday, February 21 ~

Monday, March 10th, 2008

Valencia is a city just up the road from Denia, and it played host to a splendidly confusing couple of hours on Thursday night.  Most of us (most meaning the team that had just vacated Denia) were only going to be in the city for about 12 hours – long enough to drop off the rental car, go out to dinner, grab a nap and then wake up in time for an early flight back to Paris – and yet there was a lot of activity packed into those hours.  Multiple bottles of whiskey, confrontations with Spanish dudes, missed flights, dance mayhem, the list goes on…as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words so without any more ramblings from me, here are seven thousand of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

     

 

dsf

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

~ Day 102: Monday, February 18 ~

Monday, March 10th, 2008

It’s time, once again, to head off to Denia, Spain.  This will be my second journey to this little resort town and I’m looking forward to it.  It happens to be a work related visit, but when one is fortunate to be forced to travel to the south-east coast of Spain he or she should know well enough not to complain.  The only downside is that I was a captive audience to a mixed CD of Shakira’s greatest hits on the trip from the airport, but even that is a welcome regret when zipping past orange groves and sea at 130 kilometers an hour. 

Views from my conference room at the resort where our project team worked, slept, and imbibed.

~ Day 100: Saturday, February 16 ~

Monday, March 10th, 2008

Into the triple digits we go!  It’s been over 100 days in Paris, and so far so good.  I’ve had the opportunity to meet some random and intriguing individuals as well as venture off to some random and intriguing places.  I’m hoping that the next 100 days will offer much of the same!  At the same time, it is remarkable for me to think that approximately three months ago I was happily carving out an existence in Kansas City, with a contingent of phenomenal friends and engaging in some equally phenomenal (and hilarious) trials and tribulations.  I must admit that I get quite nostalgic when receiving notice of the continued schemes that made living in Kansas City for over four years a brilliant experience.

The Paris Centennial was marked by an attempt to dine at a fondue restaurant, which has decided that all patrons are extremely unreliable and therefore must be served wine in a baby bottle.  Apparently it’s quite a happy time in there, as well as I would expect – imagine an evening where it is possible to heave bread across a table with impunity, or perhaps start an ill-advised slap fight with a member of your entourage.  After all, there is no spillage to fear!  Unfortunately, due to a late arrival – of which I may have been a part of but not ultimately responsible for – the reservation was voided and an alternative establishment was chosen.  Thus preceded my plate of paté, of which we shall never again speak of again.

The obvious next step after an aborted fondue dinner attack is to purchase a bottle of scotch and light up cigars at an apartment where the female half of the couple that lives there is out for the night.  Which is, of course, exactly what occurred.  I chose to think of it as a 100 day victory cigar for not getting mugged by a beret wearing hooligan wielding a three day old, rock hard baguette.  Riding a Vespa, of course.  Which in Paris really must be the ideal getaway vehicle, given the unlimited number of alleys and passages one could sneakily motor on through.

  Possible hooligans (without berets or baguettes, but nonetheless potentially dangerous)

After a bottle of J & B and a round of cigars conversation inevitably got around to topics such as the American electoral process, Pringles, if the clouds of cigar smoke would be noticeable in the apartment, and so on.  One may say a typical night, and with a happy ending - a return ride on a metro to the apartment instead of a long taxi-less trek!

 

 

~ Day 97: Tuesday, February 12 ~

Wednesday, March 5th, 2008

France never ceases to amaze me, if not for the history of the country then for its contributions to the food and beverage world.  France boasts the regions of Bordeaux and Burgandy, where surprisingly the wines of those type are made.  Everyone knows of Champagne country, and there is a town that goes by the name of Dijon – guess what this little city contributed to the world?  What is intriguing to me is that when you look at a map or cruise about the country on a train it’s like you’re living in a menu.  There is no Cola region of the USA, no town called Texas Pete’s Hot Sauce, no food or wine named Pacific Northwest or Gulf States.  One could make the argument for Chicago style deep dish, I suppose, but I think the only comparison would be if the state of Illinois was actually named Pizza.  Same things goes for BBQ.  I’m sure I’m missing some example (possibly many, really), but whenever I look at a map of the USA I don’t think to myself, “Cleveland!  That’s a sauce!”

I spent the last several days traveling the French countryside, which is less fun that it sounds.  Traveling makes it sound like I was frolicking around in a vineyard or touring medieval castles, when in fact I was sitting in the backseat of a rental car on a work related mission.  Tellingly, my train on Monday arrived in the city of Dole and departed from the city of Gray.  When you realize that Dole is pronounced more like “dull” and add in a city called Gray, that should paint a picture for you.  It also must be noted that winter is winter.  France may not get the same dose of ice and snow as regions of the US, but the wind is cold, the trees are bare and skies are often overcast.

The Monday hotel was something crazy.  It had literally just re-opened after taking December and January off, and we were so late in arriving (we got lost – France dislikes street lights and easy to read road signs) that the desk clerks had gone home.  Not to worry though, they hid our room keys in the flower pots on the front steps.  It really is quite a different world over here.  Imagine phoning a clerk at the Hampton Inn and telling him you would be arriving around midnight.  “Oh no, ho ho ho, that won’t do!” he would say.  “I will be at home with the wife already.  But, you sound like a nice fellow – tell you what I’ll do.  I’ll stash the room keys underneath the bush that’s in the flowerpot out front.  Just root around there until you find them, and I’ll get your credit card in the morning.”

One thing the proprietors must have neglected to do, however, was turn on the heat in the hotel.  A chilly experience, indeed!  The presence of the two quasi radiators served only to mock me, and while brushing my teeth I feebly attempted to heat my room with the hairdryer that I found in the bathroom.  It did not work.  My second attempt in the morning also failed, miserably I might add!

When in freezing cold hotel room, switch device to the on position and hold for five minutes.  If it doesn’t work, repeat in ~ six hours. 

Upon my return to Paris I soon found myself heading out to a verrrrry intriguing concept restaurant (you can tell the degree of intrigue by the number of r’s in the word very).  The establishment is called Dans le Noir, which translates to something like “In the Dark.”  The concept is very simple – you eat, drink, and enjoy the company of your fellow diners in complete darkness.  Complete.  They request that you stow your cell phones, jackets, watches – anything that gives off light – in the lockers at the front of the restaurant.  After placing your order at the bar, you are led into a pitch black room by a blind waiter, where he / she seats you and instructs you on the proceedings.  Basically…that that you pour your wine, struggle to find your fork, pass bread, and eat your meal completely blind.  It’s quite a unique experience, and I highly enjoyed it.  Not every day, mind you, or even every week – but it definitely provides a different perspective.  Here’s a quick synopsis of the place, ripped off from another web site:

Dans le Noir has many rules: no mobile phones (they give off light), no smoking, no loud talking, no getting up without the help of a waiter, no gesticulating with your cutlery, no slapping your neighbor if he grabs your thigh—though they don’t exactly phrase it like that. But as you are led into the dining room, physical contact is a must: you’ll be asked to put your hands on the shoulders of the person in front, so as not to trip and fall. The waiters here are blind, and you must trust that they know their way around, as you certainly won’t. And with your knife and fork; it’s easier to work out what’s on your plate with your fingers something ravioli-like, a few prawns, a cherry tomato and a bean sprout salad. Guinea fowl may be mistaken for chicken, with Spätzle that are not too difficult to spear with a fork; alternatively, a dessert of pineapple carpaccio with coconut and spice biscuit sorbet is not easy to keep on the spoon. This is a restaurant that is so dark that you can’t see—the point being that everything will taste that much more potent, your senses.
But this doesn’t necessarily work—you may find yourself too distracted by trying to decipher the voices around you, working out how to eat without spilling your food in your lap, that there’s not much room for culinary excellence. It doesn’t seem to affect its popularity, the room seats 58 and is full most nights.
Dans le Noir: 51, rue Quincampoix, 4th (01 42 77 98 04). M° Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau. Open for 3 sittings: 12:30 pm, 8 pm and 10 pm daily.  

~ Day 95: Sunday, February 10 ~

Wednesday, March 5th, 2008

This Sunday I returned to the scene of my first Parisian concert experience, the Cafe de la Danse.  It was here that I had traveled many months ago (actually, just about two – time does truly fly) to track down a ticket to a sold out Keren Ann show.  Admittedly, the second time around was much less dramatic.  I navigated the hobos and their dogs with ease, and had no trouble finding my way through the short sketchy alley / passageway that leads to the Cafe.  It was a much different experience than my last episode, where I unknowingly walked past the venue at least once in oblivion and had to mimic the act of purchasing a ticket to a stranger.  

This name, by the way, cannot be further from reality.  It’s quite an inappropriate moniker, really.  When I came here the first time I was expecting stylish waiters serving wine or bottles of really expensive mineral water, all in very plush surroundings and dimly lit by only the most avant-garde fixtures.  It also sounded like a place where one would go to witness the power of interpretive dance.  Needless to say it is simply your standard ~ 500 person concert venue, complete with the standard restrooms that would be preferable to avoid.

British Sea Power was the target band this evening, and the only disappointment was that I did not arrive even later than I did.  The opening band was, to be kind, sub par.  It consisted of a skinny, somewhat scruffy kid with a guitar and a spotlight.  The first song I was subjected to included a girl sitting on the stage at his feet, with a guitar that she would sometimes tap.  I at first wondered if the tapping of the guitar was actually supposed to be happening.  The whole phenomenon appeared odd, as if a bold audience member just decided to park herself on stage.  Slowly, painfully, I realized the girl’s tapping was intentional and was probably supposed to be considered creative.  It reminded me of a painting, of which the artist says, “My finest work!  It represents the intrepid human spirit, guided by the ghosts of time among the ruins of pride and the sands of hopelessness.  Notice how the mountains climbing out of the waters of despair rise among the clouds of rebirth, where the birds of unity soar!”  Then when you look at the canvas you think to yourself, “What the f, it’s not art it’s just green and orange triangles.”  The kid sang in English, but spoke in French so I can only assume that he was apologizing to the audience between songs.

 

British Sea Power was good stuff, though.  They busted out some odd instruments, like a wind-up siren, and there was a mysterious woman dressed like an angel that played the violin.  She wasn’t wearing wings, but it still looked mysterious.  I had a chance to talk with a couple of the band members after the concert, including the violinist, and my favorite response was the one given to me after I had asked what their favorite show had been.  Turns out it was some little bar located high up in the hills of England, where sheep had wandered around inside while the band was performing.  That would have been a sight to see, especially if sheep have a secret sense of rhythm.

~ Day 93: Friday, February 8 ~

Saturday, February 16th, 2008

Since my initiation into the world of www.hypem.com I have found it increasingly enjoyable to attend random shows, many times only after hearing several songs as performed by the band.  This is quite a change from my old method, which consisted of the following:

  1. Track down the album, either online or via Best Buy.
  2. Play incessantly for weeks, irritating all roommates, fellow car passengers, and co-workers.
  3. Log into Ticketmaster with fingers fervently crossed, hoping that the band has worked Kansas City into the tour.
  4. Curse Ticketmaster for the extra $15 dollars in fees.
  5. Claim that Ticketmaster will never be used to purchase tickets until they eliminate said fees.
  6. Purchase tickets on Ticketmaster.
  7. Repeat.

The Okkervil River show that I was attending tonight at La Maroquinerie, located in the 20th arrondissement.  This happens to be an area I have never heard anyone speak glowingly about, although I never have heard anyone speak un-glowingly about it either.  It’s simply another neighborhood toward the outskirts of Paris. 

Getting to this show was going to be a slight pain, as it required several Metro transfers and a walk to the La Maroquinerie.  However, it refused to be boring ride.  Displaying remarkable foresight, fellow concert attendee Dan and I not only brought several 1664s, but we also chose the train with the loud, possibly drunk (or drugged), bare-breasted He-She.  I’m not sure the correct term for this, so please accept my apologies in advance.

Now, as a guy…I must say that when something like this happens there are two stages.  The first stage is all about the primitive portion of our brain.  What this means is your brain says something along the lines of, “Hey, hey, pay attention!  There are breasts coming your way.”  The second stage, which hopefully kicks in soon in case of situation like this, is the civilized part of your brain taking over.  In this case, stage two went basically like, “Ok, great make sure you look at this person’s face, let’s not be rude…oh sweet merciful 1664, I think that’s a dude!  Abort!!”

In retrospect it was a bit like being at a gentleman’s club.  It’s you and some buddies, drinking some beer and hanging out in a crowded place while…let’s see, how to say this…while in the presence of a topless female form that was most likely enhanced by plastic surgery.  However, there is the very uncomfortable difference that this was a (Wo)Man on a metro train.  Quite honestly I’m not sure, even now, how to respond in this type of situation and I really do hope it never happens again.  All I know is that A) this half man, half woman was very proud of his / her large new features, as they were exposed for virtually the entire time he / she was on the metro, and B) Due to the mixture of fear, awe, confusion, and loud hermaphrodite yelling we missed our metro stop.

With the random metro experience behind us, we were free to get lost in the 20th trying to find La Maroquinerie (but, by sheer accident, discovered a cheap Chinese place where one can purchase an enormous egg roll and two beers for about 3 euros), which turned out to be a very cool venue.  Okkervil River puts on an energetic show, and my only regret is that I wasn’t around when they introduced themselves – so I’m still not entirely sure how to pronounce the band’s name.  Track down a song by them named “Unless It Kicks” and enjoy.

~ Day 91: Wednesday, February 6 ~

Saturday, February 16th, 2008

Wednesday, February 6 2008 is the day that finally, finally, after approximately five years of brilliant displays of ineptitude, I arrived face to face with the CEO and founder of the company whose stock price I tirelessly toil for.  Quite honestly, I was flabbergasted that the purpose of the trip was actually to deliver a speech to the Paris office, not to award me a boat for my contributions to our shareholders.  Now, there are some amongst us that may claim to have played an equally large part in the stock’s meteoric rise, maybe even some that started the same day as I, but please – don’t dignify these outrageous claims with any type of response, except for perhaps a swift kick.  As evidence, I submit a graph (and we know that graphs are incapable of lies).  Please note that it begins with about a week before I began working and spans to this very day.

When presented with an opportunity for conversation with my CEO, I always have had grand plans.  Maybe I would pull a breathtaking marketing presentation from my jacket, explaining how my ideas would generate the company millions.  Or perhaps a brand new, revolutionary business proposition- set to quadruple market share and skyrocket the company to the top of the Fortune 500.  Instead, I recommended a bar, asked how his French classes were coming (he’s not taking any), and questioned why we weren’t expanding into northern Europe.  In retrospect, probably not the best topics to discuss but at least I didn’t trip over the carpet and fall on the floor.

It was around the time that I was making an ass out of myself that I finalized my decision that yes, I was going to attend the Smashing Pumpkins concert that was going on tonight.  I had been debating this for most of the day – how often does one have the chance to see a 90’s musical powerhouse in a Parisian arena? - and after the above interaction I figured loud, deafening music and beer was a good remedy for shame.  It turned out to be a splendid idea, as evidenced by the cheap scalped ticket and set list below!

 

 

Smashing Pumpkins ~ February 6, 2008
01. Porcelina of the Vast Oceans
02. Behold! The Night Mare
03. Bring The Light [Spoken during this song - "They will never play 'Tonight, Tonight'"]
04. Tonight, Tonight [They played it]
05. Mayonaise
06. Try, Try, Try
07. Superchrist
08. (Come On) Let’s Go!
09. Stellar
10. Perfect [This was quite awesome, it was a solo acoustic version and dedicated to the 'perfect' ladies of Paris]
11. Lily
12. The Rose March
13. Today
14. Tarantula
15. Stand Inside Your Love
16. Ava Adore
17. Drown
18. Bullet with Butterfly Wings [Insane version of this song - even better live!]
19. 1979
20. That’s The Way (My Love Is)
21. My Blue Heaven
22. The Everlasting Gaze [Another insane song live - incredible!]
23. Cash Car Star > Easy Living [Uriah Heep] (tease) > Foreplay [Boston] (tease) > For What It’s Worth [Buffalo Springfield] (tease) > Wasted Years [Iron Maiden] (tease) [This medley was sweet, and the Iron Maiden was the highlight - spotlights on the two guitar players who were rocking out very, very hard]
24. Daydream
25. Wound
26. United States > Star Spangled Banner [Key] (tease)

Encore:
27. I Don’t Mind
28. Cherub Rock
 

~ Day 89: Monday, February 4 ~

Sunday, February 10th, 2008

~ Day 88: Sunday, February 3 ~

Sunday, February 10th, 2008

After a late night scouring the streets of Bruges for hotels and and clambering over fences, today was destined to be a bit more calm and relaxed – and so it was.  As the dawn gave way to mid-morning, so did the thoughts turn from breakfast to the enormous bell tower that dominates Market Square.  There really is only one option when presented with a tall structure, whether it be a basilica or bell tower, and that is to climb it.  No matter how many steps, no matter how giant the line, it is human nature to seek out those stairs and huff and puff your way to the top.  Oddly enough, this malady only seems to afflict individuals when they are on vacation – throughout a normal routine every day routine, these same individuals will go to great lengths to avoid anything more than a tiny staircase.

Stumbling all the way up 366 winding, narrow, and crowded steps is easier said than done, but it was well worth it.  The view of Bruges, with canals running along the red-roofed houses and narrow streets, was enough to forget that the bell tower was still, in fact, a functional bell tower with many bells which enjoyed a good ringing every now and then.

The rest of the day was spent walking throughout Bruges – the cathedrals, an attempt to have a beer at the oldes bar in Bruges (closed for the day!), a scenic boat ride through the canals, and finally – a Belgian waffle.  Even if the waffle did taste almost the same as a waffle would taste at a Denny’s in the Midwest, it was still excellent to be eating a Belgian waffle in Belgium. 

The oldest bar in Bruges…sadly, not open for a pint.

On a side note, Bruges is home to a rather interesting church named the Chapel of the Holy Blood.  Its claim to fame is the small small vial held inside its walls, within which is said to be the blood of Christ.  Allegedly it was picked up either during the Crusades or was taken to the Crusades – I can’t remember which.  Anyway, the point is – if this church truly contains the blood of Jesus, why has no one ever heard of this place before?  I’ve never heard of it in any Christian literature, and one would think that Bruges would be a hot pilgramage spot if the blood of the Son of God was hanging out in town. 

Bruges truly is a beautiful city, a city saved by a stubborn river that refused to accept any more of the ships that at one time passed by its banks, and for that Bruges retains a charm that will most likely lure me back for several more visits.

~ Day 87: Saturday, February 2 ~

Thursday, February 7th, 2008

A day in Brussels must have several specific goals in mind, as the rumor goes.  First, you must try the famous Belgian beer.  The men and women of this country are known to be conisseurs, meaning they claim to know the difference between a Pilsner, Weissbier and an IPA and drink beer based off the taste, not for the silly name or nostolgic purposes.  They are proud of their beer, and would sooner punch your Bud Light bottle in the label than take a sip. 

The second thing you must do is try is some chocolate.  Or maybe look at lace.  What use anyone has for lace I don’t know, but Belgium has got it.  These, along with the fine beer, is what Belgium is known for.  Knowing this, you can easily put together a theory on the neutrality of Belgium…while France was all about revolutions and progress, the Germanic states were off modernizing and thinking about (and eventually creating) a healthy, industrial, powerhouse country.  Meanwhile, Belgium was sitting around, getting drunk and eating chocolate while discussing lace.  Let’s put it this way – if you were in junior high and you had a revolutionary classmate and a kid that was swiftly growing faster and stronger than you, you were in trouble if your main interest was lace and chocolate.  If you weren’t hiding out in a corner drinking a beer and eating a truffle, you were going to get beat up.

Then there is Le Manneken Pis, also known as Le petit Julien.  Brussel’s most famous statue, landmark even, is a statue that literally translates to “The Pissing Boy.”  The great thing is that the people of Brussels thought that only one statue of a pissing child was ridiculous, and so they also built Yanika Pis.  Allegedly, Yanika Pis, the female counterpart in this urine game, does exist in Brussels.  However, both myself and Wikipedia are unable to confirm or deny such claims.

“In 1619 I was five years old.  I got lost in Brussels.  After two days of frantic searching, my father, a nobleman, found me in an embarassing position…peeing.  As a token of gratitude, he ordered a fountain to be built, with a statue depicting me in that same position.” ~ The words of Le Manneken Pis, as told by a placard posted in a nearby chocolate shop.

Le Christian Pis?

All Brussels sights go downhill after looking at a pissing statue – what else can top that?? – and so the decision was made to hop the train to Bruges, a city that I had no idea about other than that someone once told me it was nice.

Bruges is spectacular.  Spectacular, I tell you.  Most cities that look old usually have something to ruin it at least a bit.  Tons of dirty traffic (Rome), several giant downtown buildings looming over church steeples (Paris), throngs of tourists (London – and while I admit that I am a tourist, may I also point out that I alone do not constitute a throng), and so on.  Bruges has none of these.  None!  And it appeared to be untouched by time, but in a good way.  This means that there although there was electricity, central heating, and people that spoke English there was also no plague, ugly modern monstrosities, or countless cars that wanted nothing more than to run you over.

It turns out there is something to this – without getting into it too much, Bruges had at one time been a very important trading city (actually, it seems most European cities can make that claim).  It is after all only about 13 miles from the coast, and had a nice little river through the center.  At one time it was bigger than London, but I suppose it is worth noting that at one time many old towns were bigger than London.  After all, London’s population didn’t go from zero to ~ eight million overnight.  Long story short, the river from coast to town got silted up, and voila – city untouched for the next couple hundred years.

I have but one vexation from Saturday, and it is not in regards to Bruges but at the hotel that we chose to stay at.  “Chose” is actually the wrong word to use, as Missy and I arrived in Bruges after dark with no hotel and had some difficulty tracking one down – surprisingly, most hotels were either packed full or 160 Euros.  We ended up at the ultra luxurious Koffieboontje Hotel (not sure the correct pronunciation, but it sounded like they were saying “Coffee Boy”). 

Coffee Boy had a single room, large enough for a bed and that’s it, and graciously offered it up.  But ah, who cares - the real vexing thing about Coffee Boy is that after a glorious dinner out, a bottle of wine, and several beers off a 300 beer menu (300!  And I thought the beers of the world ended after Red Dog, Olympia, Hamm’s Special Light, and Icehouse!), we ended up having to scale the ten foot tall gate that surrounds the hotel.  Apparently we didn’t pay the premium needed for the rope ladder required to get back into the hotel at night.  Or, maybe we broke curfew.  Then again, it could just be that at this particular time of the evening neither Missy or myself were capable of operating the key to unlock the gate…and so the mystery shall remain.

[PICTURES IN GOOD TIME...]

~ Day 86: Friday, February 1 ~

Tuesday, February 5th, 2008

What European country has seen the most battles?  If you have guessed France, I’d say that’s a logical choice.  If you chose Portugal, I’d recommend a history book.  The answer, from what I have read, is actually Belgium.  Little neutral Belgium.  However, given that two great powers of the last several hundred years were hanging out on either side, it makes complete sense.  In World War I alone, there were three huge battles fought at a town that I am still unable to pronounce: Ypres.  Before there is some giggling at the name of a town that sounds like the noise from an intoxicated dog, let me share these statistics:

 

Can you imagine if these numbers were repeated today?  There’d be some mass outrage, to say the least.  Waterloo, where Napoleon was once and for all defeated (by an interesting coaltion, no less: UK, United Netherlands, Prussia, Hanover, Nassau, Brunswick – I thought Nassau was an island in the Bahamas, but apparently I’m wrong) is about seven miles from Brussels – the town that I was visiting tonight.

It’s odd, I have never once heard anyone breathlessly recommend Belgium the country to visit, or even a country to visit.  Even reliable Bill Bryson, who has written many excellent and silly travel books, somewhat thumbs his nose at Belgium.  Nonetheless, this city has been on my list for several months, and it was with only a minor bit of backpack and train ticket drama that Missy and I found ourselves on a train bound for Brussels.

 

Arriving in a city in the evening is quite different than arriving in the morning, or in the middle of the day.  Cities have a different character after night falls – a different look, a different energy.  My first impression of Brussels was overwhelmingly positive.  Standing on the quiet steps of the great St. Michael cathedral, with the streets of the city sloping down to the lights of central Belgium, the spire of the Grand Place rising up in the distance…it was easy to forget that it was windy and cold.

We spent the rest of the night enjoying the Grand Place, wandering the small twisting streets around the square, attempting to track down a hotel, and discovering a restaurant that serves steak with about twelve different sauces.  I was ecstatic about this last point.  It’s almost worth a trip to Brussels for a meter of Belgian beer and the sheer magnificent quantity of sauces alone…