Archive for March, 2008

~ Day 121: Saturday, March 8 ~

Sunday, March 30th, 2008

Most people are quite happy if they are able to live their enire life without a dirty flock of pigeons descending upon them in a crazed scrabbling of beaks and flapping wings.  Pigeons are not considered a noble bird, at least your typical filthy city pigeon (perhaps the valiant carrier pigeon salvages some grace for the species).  They wallow in putrid rainwater and eat crumbs of garbage.  Their main purpose, as far as I can tell, is to provide merriment to the small children who endlessly chase after them.

All this goes out the window as soon as you set foot in San Marco square, the main gathering location for tourists, and – consequentially – pigeons. 

Common sense regarding potential disease or what the bird has most recently walked in is ignored as people – most likely intelligent, nice, and in most circumstances normal people – line up to purchase bags of birdseed.  For what purpose?  Why, to hold in their hand, of course!  And what do you think happens when someone holds birdseed in each hand, in a square crowded with unruly pigeons?  

Yes, people actually paid for this privilege.  I won’t say I didn’t consider it.
    

How cute.  No matter what happens the rest of their lives, at least this couple will always have this romantic moment in Venice.  

The huge quantity of ravenous pigeons fearlessly swooping about square was equally disturbing and hilarious, and I honestly could have spent a good hour viewing this disaster.  I’m telling you – it was a bit chilly, rainy, and I was surrounded by hungry pigeons – but I gladly would have stayed right where I was.  Alas, the weekend schedule would not allow me to waste a morning on foolish birds, and I soon found myself remembering that unwritten maxim among tourists: find the tallest available object and go to the top.  It doesn’t matter if it is a church or an office building or a stepladder – just do it.

 

This rule was duly noted, and in no time I was pushing my way around the summit of the San Marco bell tower, complete with commanding (and windy) views of Venice.  For the small price one euro I was educated via audio guide, from which I became fascinated about the pillars of Doge’s Palace.  Namely, that amongst the hundred of white pillars are two red ones, between which they called out the names of those condemmed to be hanged in the square that day.  Thankfully this tradition was discontinued a while back, and public executions have since gone out of style.  To continue the pillar theme, it was between the two huge, 1000 year old columns on the square where the gallows stood.  It’s claimed that it is bad luck to stand between them, but there was a trashy tourist stand set up in that very spot.  Hopefully that means it will go out of business.

The other main tourist dealio in Venice besides the square San Marco is the Grand Canal.  As one may be able to deduce from the name, the Grand Canal is the most important and longest canal in Venice.  It’s about two miles long with an average depth of seventeen feet, and it is beautiful.  Lined with impressive old homes, as well as the occasional palace and church, it is incredible when viewed while cruising up the canal in a boat.  The whole canal takes perhaps an hour to travel – not bad, given that you’re basically on a water bus that is making passenger stops – and it is worth every minute.  This is one spectacle that I’ve seen where I can 100% honestly say that pictures do not do it justice.  It must be witnessed (just like the pigeon feeding frenzy).

Pigeons, three outstanding pizzas, wandering around narrow alleys, gelato, enjoying a bottle of wine on the canal, water taxis, getting pushed in a sandwich shop by an elderly German man…these were just the precursor for the real motive for this trip – the Venetian Ghost Tour!  That’s right, for just a couple euros you will receive a guided tour leading through several of the haunted sites and stories of the city.  For example - the tale of Marco Polo’s outcast Asian wife, a cunning beheading (resulting in lots of walking for the beheader), knife fights and blood in the wells, and horses galloping up staircases.  The tour ended at the Rialto Bridge, the city’s most famous four hundred year old bridge gracing the Grand Canal.  This last one may have been my favorite story – highlights include the bridge mysteriously crumbling into the canal night after night, a pact with the devil, a rooster, and the spirit of a sneezing infant.  Eerie, and a good conclusion to the tour, especially when paired with the cheap cigars purchased earlier that day!

Not part of the ghost tour, but spooky nonetheless.
  

 

Hanging out with some other spirits, this time in liquid form. 

 

~ Day 120: Friday, March 7 ~

Saturday, March 29th, 2008

“Ahhhhhhh, Venice!”  With a stamp of approval like that – from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, of course – how can one resist a weekend tour of Venice?  In fact, think of all the solid movies that have been filmed (or claimed to be filmed) in Venice and interest is piqued right up.

  • Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade – Remember when Indy had to pound a hole in the floor of the library, then wander through some catacombs?  That was actually the Church of San Barnaba in Venice, somewhat near the square of Saint Mark.
  • The Italian Job (2003) – There was the whole opening scene, where a gang of thieves led by Marky “Good Vibrations” Mark somehow blow up a floor and steal a safe.  Then there is the obligatory chase scene involving inept Italian police boats.
  • Casino Royale – Bond and the lady go cruising through the canals on a boat they managed to procure, most likely with illicit gambling winnings.

That’s enough for now.  In each of those movies the city looked amazing, and it is difficult to pass up a chance to go visit a 1500 year old former trading mecca built on 117 different islands, connected by approximately 400 bridges which span the 150+ canals.  Plus Venice looks like a fish.

The travel to Venice has given me cause to believe that RyanAir may claim to have great deals on airfare, but in actuality they’re just liars.  Before I can explain, it’s necessary to know that RyanAir is able to offer “discounts” because it uses secondary airports.  The problem is, secondary airports are secondary because they’re far away from where people are.

So, to save perhaps seventy euros by booking a flight on RyanAir, here is what we also dealt with:

  • Transportation to the airport from Paris.  This can be accomplished via bus, which costs about twelve euros.  Sadly the buses run on a RyanAir schedule, which we missed, so we had to take a taxi.
  • The length of time to get to the airport.  Because of this secondary airport business it took about eighty minutes.  This hour plus was spent in a taxi, so not so good on the saving money part!
  • Transportation to the airport from Venice.  Done via bus, costs about ten euros.
  • Airport about eighty minutes away from the city.

Duplicate all that for the return trip and you’re looking at about fifty euros in bus fares (disregarding the taxi), plus the hassle of the bus (of which there is only one per flight, and if you miss it…you’re not at a major airport so good luck) and then the time premium to get to the secondary airport.  However…travel in general takes time and money, so why do I document all of this here?  Merely so you do not book a flight on RyanAir thinking that it is the best deal in the world.

The good news about all of this is when you finally get to the airport, the shops there are gladly willing to sell you 1664 and Pringles!  How very thoughtful, no?  The cornerstones to not just a healthy lifestyle, but also to a great weekend in Italy.  And – just to make the flight that much better - a nice bottle of Southern Comfort was smuggled aboard via Coca-Cola bottles.  Yes, your old high school tricks still work even if you are a bit older!

One of the first things that will strike you as you disembark the bus and head toward the actual city of Venice is the cars.  Specifically, the lack of them.  Venice actually outlaws cars.  That’s right, it is possible to stumble around the streets and bridges of Venice, gaping at beautiful buildings and the equally bad tourist merchandise, without fear of getting smashed into the pavement by a speeding Italian.  This may sound like the sedentary nightmare – no cars, and there isn’t a subway – but help is on its way in two forms.  First, Venice isn’t that big.  There is a lot of narrow alleys and history packed onto these islands, and it’s small enough that you can easily see most of it.  Secondly, as one may already know, there is a water taxi / water metro service!  Quite the novel concept, I’ve never seen anything like it.  And it is exactly like it sounds - boats instead of car or train.  Who would have thought!

 

 

~ Day 115: Sunday, March 2 ~

Thursday, March 27th, 2008

Grand plans had been laid for this weekend! With a requirement to be in Madrid on Monday, I had the entire weekend to roam around the capital city of Spain. I would crash in a hostel and play checkers with some Romanian hippies, get a ticket to a Real Madrid game, sample some tapas, have a beer in the Plaza Mayor, wander through a museum or two, fall asleep in a park…all the typical things one would do to prepare themselves for several days of humiliating failures with the Spanish language. Alas, it was not to be – for some reason I have gained an undesirable (and unfounded) confidence that flights will be cheap and rooms available, no matter when I attempt to book a flight. It was because of this misplaced confidence that there I was, Friday night at 22:00, discovering nothing except pricey airlines and full hostels. My lone victory was booking a hotel for Sunday night entirely in my broken Spanish.

To make matters even more shameful I somehow managed to end up in the wrong museum on this Sunday evening. In an attempt to salvage at least something out of my weekend I had made it a personal quest to tour the Prado Museum – one of the top ten museums in the world, according to most shady websites I found in regards to museum rankings (although the ranking systems had been less than transparent, the persistent rumor was that the Prado was worth the euros). Without getting too much into it (mainly because I’m still not sure exactly what I did to screw this up) I walked into a museum that I thought was the Prado, spent about sixty minutes shuffling around, and walked out – thinking that although nice, the exhibits were not all that impressive – onto the street where the the actual, big Prado building is located. By this time the museum was closed, which means I will be forced to live with the shame and confusion of how the hell I missed it. To make it worse, I’m 99% sure that I literally walked directly past the museum. Who knows. At least the mini bar in my hotel is free.

Information probably only I find interesting…but notice the differences in value between top 5 soccer clubs vs. top 5 baseball teams, per Forbes.

~ Day 110: Tuesday, February 26 ~

Wednesday, March 26th, 2008

I’ve been reading a fair amount of books during my days here in Paris.  I hypothesize that the increased number of train rides are responsible, plus I don’t have a TV that will speak to me in English.  At the risk of sounding pompous, there are a couple quotes from a recently read literary gem that truly deserve their time in the spotlight.

 ”I say, beware of all enterprises that require new clothes, and not rather a new wearer of clothes.  If there is not a new man, how can the new clothes be made to fit?  If you have any new enterprise before you, try it in your old clothes…perhaps we should never procure a new suit, however ragged or dirty the old, until we have so conductd, so enterprised, or sailed away in some way, that we feel like new men in the old, and that to retain it would be like keeping new wine in old bottles.”

“Those things for which the most money is demanded are never the things which the student most wants.  Tuition, for example, is an important item in the term bill, while for the far more valuable education which he gets by associating with the most cultivated of his contemporaries no charge is made.”

“I rejoice that there are owls.  Let them do the idiotic and maniacal hooting for men…they represent the stark twilight and unsatisfied thoughts that all have.”

~ Day 108: Sunday, February 24 ~

Wednesday, March 26th, 2008

After having marched up down and around staircases for a significant portion of the previous day it was nice to sit on a large rock for a relaxing hour on this particular morning.  And if that rock can be located down a path to where it looks like a stone dock of Mont Saint-Michel used to be, even better.  And, if you can eat a package of delicious touristy apple cookies…well, then that’s simply splendid.  The only thing I may trade from that little scenario is the rock for a couch.  Perhaps the apple cookie for a Sausage Egg McMuffin or Hot Cakes combo as well.  So, I suppose the morning could have been better if I was sitting on a nice couch placed upon the rocks of the Mont while dominating one of McDonald’s breakfast offerings.  Now that is called embracing the French culture.

There were high hopes for the day (bad pun definitely intended), as we were going to wander the massive monestary complex perched on the top of the island.  The place is old, huge, full of intriguing history and myth…what more could one want on a Sunday morning (ESPN, maybe)?

The touring of the monestary involved one of my few exeriences with audio guides.  I typically scoff at such devices, boasting to myself that I know enough history about the place or thing I’m about to see, or I just end up creating an enjoyable (yet historically inaccurate) reality.  But I’ve always felt that I’m somehow cheating myself.  After all, if I don’t know the subleties – that LOCATION A was once a prison for unruly fishermen in the 1600’s, or if LOCATION B was the very palace where a king, two portly peasant women, a court jester, and an amorous squirrel spent one unforgettable night, or if LOCATION C was where the first rock was thrown at a short person - have I enjoyed the experience as much as I should – or could – have?  Regardless, when you consider the extremes – one involving me staring blankly at a candleholder for twenty minutes, struggling to understand its significance, the other being me subjected to a tour guide hell-bent on making me hate the very place I came to visit - the audio guide isn’t such a bad deal. 

A squirrel with a secret?

Needless to say the whole monestary was massively impressive.  It consists of level after level being built on top of one another, with the church at the very top.  I got to see a guy ring the churchbells while sitting around up there, which I’m going to chalk up to one of life’s little accomplishments.  I’m not sure why.  The cloisters were absolutely amazing, with a beautiful view to the west.  That had to be the coolest part of the church, and I would have loved to spend a good hour or so with that view.  As you descend into the complex you notice all the huge pillars, desperately supporting the weight of the buildings above.  The audio guide helpfully documented all the times when a wall had collapsed, a comforting thought when four floors down in the dark.

My prevalent thought during my time was: with all the advances made in the past one hundred years, has mankind created anything that is this spectacular?  Sure, we have constructed huge steel towers capable of withstanding earthquakes – no easy feat – but Saint-Michel is built of brick and rock, literally hewn from the stone that surrounds it (and it has withstood numerous invasion attempts…and maybe an earthquake, who knows).  Nothing was diagrammed on a computer, no one had a sweet Texas Instruments calculator, and yet…this incredible structure is still here today.  Often I wonder what one of these early masons would say, if spirited to the present day.  I’m imagining him standing at the base of something like the Sears Tower, knowing that we have computer simulations and massive machinery, and saying something like “That’s it?”  Seriously, my bet is he would be more impressed with the advancements made in the world of sandwiches.  I can imagine it now – “No way, I can put this newfangled ranch dressing and jalapenos on my pepperjack club trio with bacon sandwich?  Fuck the Petronas Twin Towers, we’re staying here!”

Fighting it out for supremacy.

~ Day 107: Saturday, February 23 ~

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Nothing makes you feel more like a man than not being able to rent a car because you don’t know how to drive a manual transmission.  Oh sure, you could wrestle a polar bear, or get into a knife fight with a Russian.  But truly, if you want to feel at the peak of your masculinity, tell the good representatives at Avis, Hertz, and EuropCar that you are incapable of operating a stickshift.

But are you man enough to take on a knife-wielding infant polar bear?

I mentioned a while back that often times one wakes up over here and says, “Ok, what kind of loop am I going to be thrown for today.”  Three car rental places, not one of them having an automatic, is one of those loops.  Quite quickly the original plan – driving the Normandy coast and parking at Mont Saint-Michel – instead became a whilwind of train schedules and taxi rides.  Nevertheless, I was in Caen and there was a castle and a cathedral to see.  And a tram to illegally board.

 

Mysteriously, the apartments across the street from Caen castle are uninhabited.  Perhaps it has to do with the cannons.

Whenever I arrive at a magnificent old place like Mont Saint-Michel I find myself pondering two things.  The first concerns the ridiculous amount of garbage that souvenir shops are selling.  Shit like tall puffy hats, creepy little figurines, plastic weapons, 12 page history books about the place probably written by high school students, and so on.  Even more remarkable is that every shop has these things, which means people are out there buying this stuff.  Please, I implore you – if you are one of these people, cease.  And desist, if possible.  The second thing that always comes to mind is what it must have been like back in the day, whenever that day may have been.  Mont Saint-Michel must have been quite a scene.  It’s part stronghold, part monestary – a town with impressive walls and towers, all spiraling to the top of the island where the church buildings are ingeniously constructed – courtesy of the demands that the archangel Michel placed upon a bishop back in the the eighth century. 

 

The town of Mont Saint-Michel is situated on a small island that rises up from the gray clay of the Normandy coast.  Crowning the island is the church of Saint-Michel, and below it, spread along a single winding pedestrian street, are the hotels, restaurants, and shops of the town.  Scattered throughout the island are stone staircases, passageways, little open spaces…it really is quite beautiful.  As nice as it is during the day it is far superior at night.  The majority of the tourists leave, including noisy children and miniscule dogs, and it becomes very quiet. One can imagine torches flickering in the night as you walk along the ramparts, and there is one incredible phenomenon that puts Mont Saint-Michel near the top of my list.

The rock that is Mont Saint-Michel sits in a tidal plain, meaning that it floods.  During dinner, Missy and I heard an announcer say, “Please move your cars.  The water is rising.” Riiiiiiight.  Just 30 minutes ago we were surrounded by gray mud, with several puddles in the distance the only water in sight.  However…after walking to the walls of the town that evening one could see the Mont was now truly an island.  It’s amazing, and there is no better place to drink a bottle of wine than at the entrance of a medieval island town*, watching tidal waters recede as silently as they had come.

Moonlight over the Mont

*Because everything must always be “improved” there is now an un-floodable land bridge that was built in the 1960s or 1970s. So I suppose I’m technically lying by calling it an island.

~ Day 106: Friday, February 22 ~

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

When one’s day begins at 630 AM following a raucaus night of whiskey induced mayhem, it’s typically a day best greeted with a bottle of Excedrin and a jug of overly expensive water.  If both the pain medication and means of hydration are not available, I suppose a phonecall informing you that your taxi is waiting outside for your early flight home will do just as well.  May I please point out that anyone wishing to engage in Valencian antics had best bring a Spanish person along in his or her entourage.  Not only do they A) fluently speak the local language (useful when haggling over the price of a bottle of Glenfiddich), they also B) are used to consistently staying out until 6 AM in the morning.  This helpful characteristic means they don’t need to sleep, and thus are not prone to somehow missing the alarm on their cell phones.

Friday would have been an excellent day to crash into a bed of blankets and not emerge until late evening, possibly to purchase an Orangina or maybe even to venture off for some fresh air.  Thankfully such foolish thoughts were hurled aside, and planning immediately commenced to fly to Pisa, Italy or take a train up to Mont St-Michel.  After a breakfast at the American Diner, several episodes of Arrested Development, and moaning about a headache, Mont St-Michel was chosen as the lucky winner.

I had first discovered Mont St-Michel in the pages of The Economist, in an advertisement for a Land Rover.  That’s actually where I discover all my weekend vacation spots.  Don’t let The Economist fool you – it may host many articles regarding global warming, political upheaval, falling currencies, genocide, and corruption within its pages, but every now and then an advertisement for an SUV will inspire a dedicated reader.

Prior to any gawking at the truly impressive Mont, there was Caen.  Yes, Caen! Who hasn’t heard of Caen?!  It actually does have an impressive history, being in northern France.  This means Normandy, which means the D-Day invasion of 1944, which means that 75% of the city (approximately 10,000 buildings) was destroyed during WWII.  In contrast to those chaotic times, Caen was actually the preferred home of William the Conqueror in the 11th century – although, quite probably this made the scene much more interesting, given that he invaded England and frequently besieged his French neighbors.  Quite interesting, but it seems that most of these little towns that I end up in, either for work or something more interesting, have a bit of history.  Or at least a castle.  Unfortunately, with the late train arrival the most inspiring items that Caen offered were the garrish sign for our hotel and a perplexing shopkeeper, who sold me some type of gyro after several minutes of awkwardly attempted Frenglish.

 

~ Day 105: Thursday, February 21 ~

Monday, March 10th, 2008

Valencia is a city just up the road from Denia, and it played host to a splendidly confusing couple of hours on Thursday night.  Most of us (most meaning the team that had just vacated Denia) were only going to be in the city for about 12 hours – long enough to drop off the rental car, go out to dinner, grab a nap and then wake up in time for an early flight back to Paris – and yet there was a lot of activity packed into those hours.  Multiple bottles of whiskey, confrontations with Spanish dudes, missed flights, dance mayhem, the list goes on…as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words so without any more ramblings from me, here are seven thousand of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

     

 

dsf

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

~ Day 102: Monday, February 18 ~

Monday, March 10th, 2008

It’s time, once again, to head off to Denia, Spain.  This will be my second journey to this little resort town and I’m looking forward to it.  It happens to be a work related visit, but when one is fortunate to be forced to travel to the south-east coast of Spain he or she should know well enough not to complain.  The only downside is that I was a captive audience to a mixed CD of Shakira’s greatest hits on the trip from the airport, but even that is a welcome regret when zipping past orange groves and sea at 130 kilometers an hour. 

Views from my conference room at the resort where our project team worked, slept, and imbibed.

~ Day 100: Saturday, February 16 ~

Monday, March 10th, 2008

Into the triple digits we go!  It’s been over 100 days in Paris, and so far so good.  I’ve had the opportunity to meet some random and intriguing individuals as well as venture off to some random and intriguing places.  I’m hoping that the next 100 days will offer much of the same!  At the same time, it is remarkable for me to think that approximately three months ago I was happily carving out an existence in Kansas City, with a contingent of phenomenal friends and engaging in some equally phenomenal (and hilarious) trials and tribulations.  I must admit that I get quite nostalgic when receiving notice of the continued schemes that made living in Kansas City for over four years a brilliant experience.

The Paris Centennial was marked by an attempt to dine at a fondue restaurant, which has decided that all patrons are extremely unreliable and therefore must be served wine in a baby bottle.  Apparently it’s quite a happy time in there, as well as I would expect – imagine an evening where it is possible to heave bread across a table with impunity, or perhaps start an ill-advised slap fight with a member of your entourage.  After all, there is no spillage to fear!  Unfortunately, due to a late arrival – of which I may have been a part of but not ultimately responsible for – the reservation was voided and an alternative establishment was chosen.  Thus preceded my plate of paté, of which we shall never again speak of again.

The obvious next step after an aborted fondue dinner attack is to purchase a bottle of scotch and light up cigars at an apartment where the female half of the couple that lives there is out for the night.  Which is, of course, exactly what occurred.  I chose to think of it as a 100 day victory cigar for not getting mugged by a beret wearing hooligan wielding a three day old, rock hard baguette.  Riding a Vespa, of course.  Which in Paris really must be the ideal getaway vehicle, given the unlimited number of alleys and passages one could sneakily motor on through.

  Possible hooligans (without berets or baguettes, but nonetheless potentially dangerous)

After a bottle of J & B and a round of cigars conversation inevitably got around to topics such as the American electoral process, Pringles, if the clouds of cigar smoke would be noticeable in the apartment, and so on.  One may say a typical night, and with a happy ending - a return ride on a metro to the apartment instead of a long taxi-less trek!

 

 

~ Day 97: Tuesday, February 12 ~

Wednesday, March 5th, 2008

France never ceases to amaze me, if not for the history of the country then for its contributions to the food and beverage world.  France boasts the regions of Bordeaux and Burgandy, where surprisingly the wines of those type are made.  Everyone knows of Champagne country, and there is a town that goes by the name of Dijon – guess what this little city contributed to the world?  What is intriguing to me is that when you look at a map or cruise about the country on a train it’s like you’re living in a menu.  There is no Cola region of the USA, no town called Texas Pete’s Hot Sauce, no food or wine named Pacific Northwest or Gulf States.  One could make the argument for Chicago style deep dish, I suppose, but I think the only comparison would be if the state of Illinois was actually named Pizza.  Same things goes for BBQ.  I’m sure I’m missing some example (possibly many, really), but whenever I look at a map of the USA I don’t think to myself, “Cleveland!  That’s a sauce!”

I spent the last several days traveling the French countryside, which is less fun that it sounds.  Traveling makes it sound like I was frolicking around in a vineyard or touring medieval castles, when in fact I was sitting in the backseat of a rental car on a work related mission.  Tellingly, my train on Monday arrived in the city of Dole and departed from the city of Gray.  When you realize that Dole is pronounced more like “dull” and add in a city called Gray, that should paint a picture for you.  It also must be noted that winter is winter.  France may not get the same dose of ice and snow as regions of the US, but the wind is cold, the trees are bare and skies are often overcast.

The Monday hotel was something crazy.  It had literally just re-opened after taking December and January off, and we were so late in arriving (we got lost – France dislikes street lights and easy to read road signs) that the desk clerks had gone home.  Not to worry though, they hid our room keys in the flower pots on the front steps.  It really is quite a different world over here.  Imagine phoning a clerk at the Hampton Inn and telling him you would be arriving around midnight.  “Oh no, ho ho ho, that won’t do!” he would say.  “I will be at home with the wife already.  But, you sound like a nice fellow – tell you what I’ll do.  I’ll stash the room keys underneath the bush that’s in the flowerpot out front.  Just root around there until you find them, and I’ll get your credit card in the morning.”

One thing the proprietors must have neglected to do, however, was turn on the heat in the hotel.  A chilly experience, indeed!  The presence of the two quasi radiators served only to mock me, and while brushing my teeth I feebly attempted to heat my room with the hairdryer that I found in the bathroom.  It did not work.  My second attempt in the morning also failed, miserably I might add!

When in freezing cold hotel room, switch device to the on position and hold for five minutes.  If it doesn’t work, repeat in ~ six hours. 

Upon my return to Paris I soon found myself heading out to a verrrrry intriguing concept restaurant (you can tell the degree of intrigue by the number of r’s in the word very).  The establishment is called Dans le Noir, which translates to something like “In the Dark.”  The concept is very simple – you eat, drink, and enjoy the company of your fellow diners in complete darkness.  Complete.  They request that you stow your cell phones, jackets, watches – anything that gives off light – in the lockers at the front of the restaurant.  After placing your order at the bar, you are led into a pitch black room by a blind waiter, where he / she seats you and instructs you on the proceedings.  Basically…that that you pour your wine, struggle to find your fork, pass bread, and eat your meal completely blind.  It’s quite a unique experience, and I highly enjoyed it.  Not every day, mind you, or even every week – but it definitely provides a different perspective.  Here’s a quick synopsis of the place, ripped off from another web site:

Dans le Noir has many rules: no mobile phones (they give off light), no smoking, no loud talking, no getting up without the help of a waiter, no gesticulating with your cutlery, no slapping your neighbor if he grabs your thigh—though they don’t exactly phrase it like that. But as you are led into the dining room, physical contact is a must: you’ll be asked to put your hands on the shoulders of the person in front, so as not to trip and fall. The waiters here are blind, and you must trust that they know their way around, as you certainly won’t. And with your knife and fork; it’s easier to work out what’s on your plate with your fingers something ravioli-like, a few prawns, a cherry tomato and a bean sprout salad. Guinea fowl may be mistaken for chicken, with Spätzle that are not too difficult to spear with a fork; alternatively, a dessert of pineapple carpaccio with coconut and spice biscuit sorbet is not easy to keep on the spoon. This is a restaurant that is so dark that you can’t see—the point being that everything will taste that much more potent, your senses.
But this doesn’t necessarily work—you may find yourself too distracted by trying to decipher the voices around you, working out how to eat without spilling your food in your lap, that there’s not much room for culinary excellence. It doesn’t seem to affect its popularity, the room seats 58 and is full most nights.
Dans le Noir: 51, rue Quincampoix, 4th (01 42 77 98 04). M° Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau. Open for 3 sittings: 12:30 pm, 8 pm and 10 pm daily.  

~ Day 95: Sunday, February 10 ~

Wednesday, March 5th, 2008

This Sunday I returned to the scene of my first Parisian concert experience, the Cafe de la Danse.  It was here that I had traveled many months ago (actually, just about two – time does truly fly) to track down a ticket to a sold out Keren Ann show.  Admittedly, the second time around was much less dramatic.  I navigated the hobos and their dogs with ease, and had no trouble finding my way through the short sketchy alley / passageway that leads to the Cafe.  It was a much different experience than my last episode, where I unknowingly walked past the venue at least once in oblivion and had to mimic the act of purchasing a ticket to a stranger.  

This name, by the way, cannot be further from reality.  It’s quite an inappropriate moniker, really.  When I came here the first time I was expecting stylish waiters serving wine or bottles of really expensive mineral water, all in very plush surroundings and dimly lit by only the most avant-garde fixtures.  It also sounded like a place where one would go to witness the power of interpretive dance.  Needless to say it is simply your standard ~ 500 person concert venue, complete with the standard restrooms that would be preferable to avoid.

British Sea Power was the target band this evening, and the only disappointment was that I did not arrive even later than I did.  The opening band was, to be kind, sub par.  It consisted of a skinny, somewhat scruffy kid with a guitar and a spotlight.  The first song I was subjected to included a girl sitting on the stage at his feet, with a guitar that she would sometimes tap.  I at first wondered if the tapping of the guitar was actually supposed to be happening.  The whole phenomenon appeared odd, as if a bold audience member just decided to park herself on stage.  Slowly, painfully, I realized the girl’s tapping was intentional and was probably supposed to be considered creative.  It reminded me of a painting, of which the artist says, “My finest work!  It represents the intrepid human spirit, guided by the ghosts of time among the ruins of pride and the sands of hopelessness.  Notice how the mountains climbing out of the waters of despair rise among the clouds of rebirth, where the birds of unity soar!”  Then when you look at the canvas you think to yourself, “What the f, it’s not art it’s just green and orange triangles.”  The kid sang in English, but spoke in French so I can only assume that he was apologizing to the audience between songs.

 

British Sea Power was good stuff, though.  They busted out some odd instruments, like a wind-up siren, and there was a mysterious woman dressed like an angel that played the violin.  She wasn’t wearing wings, but it still looked mysterious.  I had a chance to talk with a couple of the band members after the concert, including the violinist, and my favorite response was the one given to me after I had asked what their favorite show had been.  Turns out it was some little bar located high up in the hills of England, where sheep had wandered around inside while the band was performing.  That would have been a sight to see, especially if sheep have a secret sense of rhythm.